Day 1: Saturday 02.10.2004
Reporter: Shareef abu-fanneh
Identity: Palestinian with an Israeli citizenship
Age: 22 (Male)
Voyage: Southampton port (Introduction to sea sailing).
9:00 at the morning, having breakfast at the Holland youth hostel in London, packing up and travelling towards Southampton port to get on the Prince William tall ship. (2 hours travel).
Exciting moments before seeing the Prince William tall ship, Mixed feelings, Excitement and fear.
The first look at the Prince William let the thoughts drop down to my mind… what I am doing here, “a drop in the ocean”… “Am I crazy??!!”, but dramatically this thoughts disappeared when I firstly touch the boats stairs, I got back to the real metric and touchable world. mmmm
On the boat I was glad to meet people from different backgrounds, Britain, American, Indonesian, Israelis and Palestinian.
We were divided to three watches (Shifts), white, red and blue, every watch is based on mixed backgrounder people, (I am part of the white one). It was a day full of information, we got explanations about sailing the boat and also about the behaviour in an emergency case. Also we have trained how to climb on the floats.
About 17:30 we ate our first meal at the boat, very hungry and tired.
At the evening we sat at the dining room and started dancing and laughing and also singing, I song an Arabic song :-). At the small hours we just started fighting the sleepiness faces, and softly going to our new strange beds. ;-)
Day 2: Sunday, 3 Oct 2004
Reporter: M Taufiq Affandi
Identity: Indonesian
Age: 21 (male)
Voyage: set sail from Southampton port
03.45 am
I sleep deeply at night. absolutely deep that I can really wake up before my watch time started. o yea, I haven’t told you that we’re here divided into three watches; white (here where I belong), red (they’re quite tough but white is still the best. you’ll know what’s that mean), and blue. In a word, white watch is a sort of ‘dream team’. We’ve many big guys (Shareef, Myles, Rob), a hi-leadership-skill watch leader (Guy Charles), and a group of cheerleaders (includes Brooke).
So, Shafiq, my room mate (if you could call that place as room), waked me up. I awake, got up, and went to deck where Chas waited for us there. “you look so happy, smiley, and shiny?” said Chas to us. An hour watch seems too short if you stand beside him and chat many (FUNNY) things.
04.00 am
My watch is over. But I didn’t go to my bed. I took ablution in the washroom and preparing to perform shubuh (dawn) prayers. I’m glad that everyone on the ship absolutely shown their understanding about prayer’s times. As I and the other Moslem crew have to pray five times a day, they will allow us to leave activity anytime we should pray, even they prepare the place for prayer.
09.00 am
The day started with an exciting training about many new things that I wouldn’t be able to explains in this short diary. Ben brought a model of main mast and he told us how to draw the square sails (course and lower topsail in a model, and T’gallant and royal in the other model), and he also explained about topsail by drawing a sketch on a whiteboard. When Ben pulled the tiny rope with his finger and draw the square sails, waaaw… it made everyone amazed and at once wondering when they would have the real sail drawn.
Then we have practice in our bracing station. Every watch went to their own bracing station, pulling the rope in a side, and easing it on the other side. We did it for three times. It might be their way to make sure that everyone would be ready anytime it’s needed. But when? Can we just leave this port and let the wave shaking this ship?! (granted! your dream comes true. But it you’ll be sorry that you ever said that wish.)
10.30
We’re going to face the sea! That’s what Liam (our Capt) told us in briefing. We’d go to Cherbourg port in France. This was the thing that everybody waited. When we leave Southampton port, my watch have to stay on the bridge and we kept the steer (as we are pirate!).
“Starboard twenty!” said Capt. Yael turn the steer clockwise and stopped when indicator panel in front of her showed “20”. Then she said “starboard twenty on!”
We saw a wonderful sight of yachts leaving the port for Global Challenge (an international yacht championship).
05.00 pm
The night started. Weather became rather tough and the ship bumping about 3 feet high and most of the voyagers got sea sick, even me.
Actually, deep inside my heart, I knew, I’d be strong enough for it so I tried to not vomit. But I couldn’t deny that I couldn’t avoid it. But before it, I woke up, and tried not to be sick by helping Tony (our deck hand) at the bracing station. then… I couldn’t hold it any longer.
Tony came to me and said “I’m proud of you. you’ve known that you gonna have it. but you know that you must be there.” I told myself, “if I fall down, just get back up again.” so I awoke, and then hauled on the rope in the other bracing station. But I fell down and vomited.
For about four hours I sat on the deck with my Karabiner clipped to a rod. I can’t exactly count how many times I vomited, maybe it happened about eight or nine times. Then I went to the galley, grabbing for piles of bread that actually prepared ready for dinner and back to my place. I grasped the bread strongly as It was my treasure.
Then the happy news came that the ship would go to the nearest harbour. The captain had changed the plan.
So we went to our bracing station, and I told my self that I could do it, but… I fell again. Then Chris (our nurse) told me to sit beside her. I don’t know, but it help me much, I spoke to her about her family, my family, and how I felt about our trip.
I told her, “I’ll never forget this all my lives. Later, when I have any trouble, I’ll say ‘it’s nothing. I’ve been in extreme conditions before.’” It really-really has made me tougher and stronger than before.
I was really impressed by everyone’s support. People were very considerate, and caring, and I was very well taken care of. And someone, with worried face, always ask me “how do you feel? better?”
Day 3: Monday, 4 October 2004.
Reporter :Ashraf Zeitawi
Identity: Palestinian
Voyage: Poole Harbour
00- 03am
I spent these hours in the mess room laughing with my friends “as usually” Lana, Amal, Hanin Sharif and other friends. We kept on laughing till we nearly fell asleep in that room, so I decided to go to sleep as I have a watch at 6 am.
6:00 am – 7:30.
Spending hour and half on the bridge doing my duty and watching the view, till the breakfast time. It was a little bit cold but the wonderful view take me away that I kept on watching half an hour more than my duty time.
8:30 – 9:30
Every morning we have a happy hour. So my duty was cleaning the office (called prayer room also). I enjoyed cleaning the room, having the chance to talk to my new friend Cameron.
10:00 – 12:00
After all the cleaning was finished we had to move up the Quay in Poole as Prince William’s sister ship Stavros S Niarchos went on two day sails. It took along time and a lot of effort as we had to move the gangway (this is the steps which we get on and off the boat).
12:00
We had our lunch time and a small briefing. We visited the RNLI, which is the lifeboats trust. It was amazing to get to know all this new info of making the lifeboats and the training of the volunteers.
17:00 – 19 :00
We had dinner, then we had also had a tug of war competition, the white team won!!! as usual !!! we lost, big time!! Hope we’ll have the opportunity to prove our skills in some other game!! Hope we have the skills, I’m not sure!!!!!! But it was not fair because the white team had both Lana and Sharif!! Soooo they had to win!!!
20:00 – 23:00
Had free time to go on shore. I had to wait other guys to be well-dressed “I don’t know why” but I waited. It was pretty cool , we explored the town, it’s such a nice town. We went to this cosy nice bar , spend hours telling jokes , laughing …some drinking RED Bull hoping to fly with no success!!!! hhhhhh ….it was the best time ever.
It was a perfect day !!! Having the chance to know other cultures, exploring new places, making new friends, having the chance to get to know “old friend” better. And not to forget “ No suffering from sea sickness”! To sum up, it was a great day, people of this city are GREATTT!!!!!! And not to forget the view!!!! So I can conclude with the perfect trip and adventure EVER!!!!!
Day 4: Tuesday, 5th October 2004.
Reporter :Annie Bailey
Identity: American
Ahoy!
It’s day four of our sailing adventure and already we have experienced the worst that sailing has to offer and the very best. The difference between today and our first day is remarkable. We spent the first day hanging over the leeward rail (those of us that could find the leeward rail, that is) getting greener and greener and feeling quite sorry for ourselves. It was a sorry sight, and I think we are all quite glad that that part of the voyage seems to be over for now. Today the sun is shining and this morning there were rainbows fading in and out of the golden sunrise in the east. It was spectacular and majestic.
Yesterday we left Poole midmorning. I was on the helm taking orders from the pilot. Chas and Lee made smart comments about the great responsibility of steering the ship and my heart began beating louder and faster. I followed orders and, thankfully, steered the Prince William out to sea. It was a bit stressful, as the channel out of the dock was narrow, and I am glad to be out in open water where there aren’t so many things to hit.
I am enjoying being back at sea. There is a kind of rhythm that takes over; it is as if your body and mind become liquid and join the slow rocking of the waves. We have been standing watches through the night and day. Each watch (there are three) stand on duty for four hours at a time. Our rhythm has changed from 12 hours of daylight and 12 of night to 4 hours on and 8 hours off. Time flows together and it is difficult to separate day one from day two. I love it.
Also worth mentioning is the excitement, fear, and magic of being aloft. Out at the end of the spar you lean over the canvas and look down at the deck surrounded by swirling foam and sea. It is fantastic to watch everyone scurrying about. Some swabbing the decks, some polishing brass, some lazing about enjoying the sunshine. I am overcome with a sense of togetherness and community while looking down on our little home in the middle of such a vast emptiness. It strikes me as beautiful that we can all coexist so well together, and the mundane jobs of keeping the ship clean and in working order all of a sudden become much more meaningful. This is becoming home.
Yes, the sailing is wonderful.
But what is making this trip so unique for me is the people onboard. Never have I been surrounded by such loving, funny, and genuine people. The British keep me laughing with their funny expressions (like Jacket Potatoes - what we Americans call Baked Potatoes- that makes me think of little potatoes all bundled up in winter parkas, shivering in the cold) while everyone else makes me feel at ease with their warm eyes and kindness. Ester and Ellie make the world a more beautiful place. They feel like old friends. I love being with Mohammed, Slomi, and Danny because they make me laugh and they laugh at me as I try to pronounce (but mutilate, I’m afraid) their beautiful languages. Cecile and Tika have been teaching me songs in Indonesian and I taught them one of my favourite English songs. I feel very lucky to be in such company.
What is most overwhelming for me is the understanding that we are all one. All made of the same of the same earth. It doesn’t seem to matter where we have come from or what has brought us here together. Ancient political anger and cultural difference (even language) barriers fade away. At the end of the day we sit together and paint pictures, play music, and watch the stars as though being together is the most natural thing in the world. I think it is.
Day 5: Wednesday 6th October 2004.
Reporter :Hazel Ruijsenaars
Identity: British
Voyage: Arrive in Dieppe
Bonjour!
On this fine and chilly morning I am reporting from the lovely (but very fishy) waters of Dieppe, where we arrived shortly after three on Wednesday. I would love to elaborate more on the scenery of Dieppe on arrival, although I must admit I was sound asleep below decks where not even the shrill sound of the Captains orders could stir me from my sleep! (Well what do they expect when they had me on watch from 4.00am until 8am).
Therefore to make up for my brief explanation of our arrival in France I shall compensate by describing the most beautiful sunrise I have ever witnessed. Whilst huddled on watch, cold and sleepy and contemplating what it was that originally made this trip of a life time appeal to me so much - I was suddenly reminded. As the sun began to rise behind the clouds, they appeared to be bordered with gold, it was then that I realised that every cloud does have a silver lining (although gold in this instance!- we must be special), and that in this instance the advantages of being awake at 4am was this incredible sunrise! So as this amazing sun rise was taking over the sky, illuminating the water and putting a glow on our chilly faces it made me realise that at times like these, age, religion and nationality is no barrier at all, as we can all appreciate nature!
Great excitement was soon to fill our day! There was news of another inter watch competition- this time not involving physical strength but initiative, creativity and originality- ,(at last our blue watch may have a chance after failing miserably at tug of war!) The challenge was to design something that would prevent an egg from smashing as it was hurled from the platform on the fore mast. Immediately the blue watch set about, secretly gathering materials from all over the ship and masterfully creating our flying machine known as PEGASUS! After an initial technical hitch of bouncing of the deck and landing in the water we were granted another launch. Not only did Pegasus travel the furthest and survive two launches but we also gained full marks for our presentation, we were the clear winners overall- what a beauty she did us proud!
However, not everyone was as jolly as us- especially the Captain! In true egg throwing tradition the non broken eggs had to be tested to make sure they were not hard boiled. This involved smashing it over out watch leaders heads. However, Harry Potter, (as we so fondly called him), our watch leader could not manage to hold his inner mischievous child from escaping , and smashed an Egg over Chas’s head. Little did he know that as this happened the majority of the egg actually landed on Captain Liam’s face- whoops! Whilst the egg nearly fried due to his anger, the funny side was eventually seen and laughs was had by all.
Our smooth sailing, and the success of the challenges were gratefully rewarded by shore leave in Dieppe. As we ventured in to unknown French territory we all enjoyed a relaxing evening where the culture and the food was greatly appreciated.
As the prospect of a non-rocking night in our bunks lay ahead, the next days inter watch rowing competition on the horizon, and a night full of harbour watch duty we all retreated to our bunks like fish to the sea.
Yet another amazing day to add to this fantastic adventure!
Day 6: Friday, 08 October 2004.
Reporter :Ben Rogers
Identity: American
Voyage: Dieppe
We opened the day’s activities just like we do everyday in Kansas, with a rowboat race. My boat, having me in it, lost badly. That’s okay though. As an American, I don’t feel obligated to win everything. Anyway, my watch came in second, a repeat performance from the famous egg drop competition.
After eating pasties (home-made hot-pockets) for lunch, we went ashore to Dieppe. My mission for the day was to find a French-English phrasebook, since we were going to spend some more time in French-speaking Belgium before the end of the voyage.
It was my first time in a country where English is not the main language. In France, the people speak French. Imagine that. The night before, I had been out with some crewmates and kept falling back onto the little bit of Spanish I know. I actually said sí to the lady behind the kebab counter when she asked if I wanted sauce on my kebab. This, I decided, was a great opportunity to learn a little French, so that the Belgian waitresses would not be tossing around the French word for gringo.
It seemed at first that my search would remain fruitless, since the French town was nothing but restaurants and shoe stores. It amazes me how, with approximately one restaurant per five citizens in France, it’s the Americans who are known to be the fat kids in the world.
I got my phrase book, and was then made my way to more important things like gifts for my mother and sister. For my mom, I went to a chocolate shop that was conveniently open at one in the afternoon (why did it seem like the French shopkeepers opened and closed shop whenever they felt like it?), and then some perfume for my sister.
After coming back on board the Prince William, we set off for Belgium (we almost left Ashraf behind), where we should arrive Saturday at noon.
The highlight of the day for me was helping Sa’ed, our Palestinian youth mentor, and Eko, an Indonesian voyager, learn how to steer the ship. It is warming to see that, even though we all come from extremely different places in the world, there are innate human ways that keep us all connected. Be it our senses of humor, or what we believe it takes to be a good man, there are basic similarities that run common in men of all nationalities.
While at the helm, Eko and I traded national anthems. The only word I understood in his, though, was “Indonesia.” It’s humbling to sit in the mess and listen to the voyagers effortlessly float from Hebrew, to Arabic, to English, and Indonesian. I barely know enough Spanish to order dinner at Mexican restaurants.
As the day ended with a God-ordained sunset over the chalky cliffs of Northern France, I was glad to be on this ship, rather than in a class at my university. But even more, I was glad to be learning that, thought there are some people who try to convince us otherwise, Muslims, Jews, Christians and Atheists can live together, despite their differences, and be quite happy doing so. Amen
Day 7: Saturday, 09 October 2004
Reporter: Myles Matteson
Identity: American
Yesterday at three o’clock in the morning while White watch was operating the ship, the radio came on and we heard initial reports of bombings at the Indonesian Embassy in Paris and in Israel. My watch, in addition to Brits and Americans, is composed of four Indonesians, two Palestinians, and two Israelis. It was only through watching the faces of my friends and watch mates that I really learned what anguish regularly afflicts the lives of these peoples.
While the September 11th attacks in America were heinous and massive, it marks one of only a small handful of assaults with which Americans have had to deal on their homeland. The fall of the World Trade Centres touched my family, but terrorism on my nation’s soil is for the most part a threat and not an actuality. Unfortunately, this is not so for my friends on this voyage aboard the Prince William. Instead of the shock and outrage that I felt on September 11th, the attitudes of my watch mates were anguished but also resigned to the seemingly inevitable occurrence of yet another bombing or shooting.
It took me a few minutes for me to understand the reactions of the Palestinians and Israelis; I have never lived with the immediate knowledge that my friends celebrating at a festival or just having tea in a coffee shop might suddenly be snatched away by the actions of a person intent on inflicting harm. In my mind the spectre of September 11th has faded in immediacy and thus I was unprepared for the way in which I was touched by the recent attacks in Paris and Sinai. My watch mates sat by the radio with heads bent waiting for the report of the death toll and the number of injured. What could I say? What could I do? I live in a country that on a daily basis is basically untroubled by sword of a suicide bomber hanging over our heads. I can’t say I know how my friends feel because our suffering in America was of a different nature. I could offer little or no help, and in those quiet dark hours early yesterday morning I remained standing apart, confused, and troubled by my inability to assist in any way because I just didn’t know what to do.
Before lunch, Captain called for all hands to gather in the mess. After we sat down, he gave the latest news on the bombings and spoke directly to the Israelis who likely had brothers, sisters, and friends, in Sinai celebrating. The ship’s crew were trying to find out if the families of those aboard were safe and uninjured, but for the most part no one knew whether or not they would be confronted with the death of someone they knew or loved.
After that sombre announcement, we sat there together and had a brave conversation about what makes us different. The goal was to simply explain some of our customs and philosophies in a non-critical way so as to gain an understanding of where we come from. It is easy aboard a ship to forget that we aren’t just the crew of a sailing vessel but sixty-one individuals who have different lives in so many ways. I think that the ability to share those differences and tell our friends about each other is one of the most valuable things to be gained from this experience. The bonds and trust that sailing has given to us has allowed us to open up and talk about things that might be uncomfortable in other contexts. By not glossing over those differences and by explaining the gaps, I feel that the real Voyage of Understanding is beginning to unfold. I hope that it doesn’t stop when we dock in London, but gets carried back to our home countries to be shared with our families, friends, and anyone willing to listen.
Day 8: Saturday, 9th October 2004
Reporter: Lily Currie
Identity: English
Today was started the way that every Saturday should be, a torch in my eyes and a punch on the shoulder. So up again in an hour previously unknown to myself we raised the anchor and set off towards Brugge. With limited vision due to my bodies natural inability to keep both eyes open at such an early morning hour ‘bracing stations’ was called. However, the powers that be decided that fatigue was no excuse not to have a morning exercise so we braced twice to the delight of all who were truly appreciative for the opportunity of a morning haul!
One might be fooled into believing that sailing entailed a gin and tonic relaxing on the boat deck absorbing the scenery. This portrayal of sailing couldn’t be further from the truth if you have ever had a stint on the bridge when squeezing a tall ship into a lock. My family couldn’t even manage to fit a skinny barge through a lock without adding our own special touch to the paint work , so I was truly in awe of this feat. The canals were beautiful with wildlife and old churches to be seen it was a bit of a feast for eyes.
Moored in Brugge shore leave was granted to hunt out some Belgium chocs, I preferred to feast on a local sweet from a local patisserie. Walking along the lovely old winding streets I felt like a true tourist snapping anything which moved, I correct myself just snapping anything! Brugge has a fantastic atmosphere of a traditional city without being totally dead.
Back on board following another culinary delight from Dave we had the knot relay. This involved the three watches blue, white and the ever so mighty RED tying one of eight semi-perfected knots. This was always going to be a challenge and as I am now coming to accept red watch umm well came last again. The finishing order was blue, white and red. However, I believe the mighty reds have hidden strengths we are just trying to find them.
Shore leave granted once again. The whole of red watch managed by wit and God given instinct to find a large enough bar (this could be one of our hidden strengths) to have a umm CIVILISED coke!! Enough said.
I would like to add a quick thanks to Chas for getting me out of ‘Happy Hour’ and the curse of the Green mile. Esther would like everyone back home to know that she is cleaning like she has never cleaned before after all this practice I’m sure she’d be willing to continue in the same vein at home!!
The minute that we heard that instead of going to sea again we are staying here for another day; this place became “the” most beautiful place in the whole world. The sea was too rough to sail and we were afraid because of the seasickness although we didn’t get it too hard. The phrase” seasickness” got a whole other meaning for us after the first day at sea when we saw 45 crew members on the deck throwing up their souls to the water. The port is really far away from the city and we got three breaks to go ashore while the day.
The only problem that we have here is the food problem. they are making us to eat three amazing meals a day, with three courses and a dessert. and between the meals. Dave the amazing cook is serving scones and cookies and cakes. We can’t handle it Anymore. We are gaining kilos just from thinking about the next meal. And that without speaking about the food that we are eating when we are going ashore. You can’t visit France without eating baguette or in Belgium without eating waffles or chocolates.
The going ashore that we enjoyed the most was the last one, after dinner. We are on the blue watch and we had a watch from 22:00 to 23:00. So we had to come back before the others so we decided to go just the two of us. Muhammad and Shlomi, Palestinian with Israeli citizenship and Israeli, Muslim and Jew, together just the two of us, alone in a restaurant at the middle of Belgium just having fun. We think that we achieved one of the most important goals of the “voyage of understanding”. Two young peoples from totally different backgrounds, different cultures, two sides of a coin. With no stupid talking about politics, without any tags about one another, all the cards are open. We can consider our selves as friends, real friends.
