Extract from Blue Watch diary 06.01.06

The people of Tenerife kicked our voyage off to a great start with a festival and fireworks!   In fact the celebration was to mark Twelfth Night, which is a BIG party night in Spain, but nonetheless it was a great send-off with a street party, stunning fireworks and live music ‘til dawn.   After meeting our shipmates, who will form the three watches(Red, White and Blue – patriotic!) we headed off into town to enjoy the atmosphere.  Not too late a night, though, as it was an early start the next morning. First up was a Safety Lecture and then we had a trial climb to the first platform on the fore mast – there’s plenty more mast further up, but it was good to get a bit of early practice whilst the ‘Stavros’ was in the protected water of the harbour!   At 1600, on a cloudless afternoon we pulled in our mooring lines and headed off to sea, excited but a little apprehensive too. On our first Blue watch the sea was gentle and the hours passed uneventfully.  But for how long ?……

Text home Anon 06.01.06
It’s dark now. Over the airport incoming aircraft approach like fireflies; at this distance they make no sound.  Alongside us, five miles off, the coast of Tenerife slips slowly behind, lit up with a myriad lights twinkling softly through the night, as if wishing us fair winds for our voyage.  They’ll be gone by morning.  Who knows what adventures lie ahead?   Twenty-five days, two and a half thousand miles of water; I really wish I’d learnt to swim.

An Embarrassing Event 09.01.06
The seat of Pippa’ trousers has worn and ripped through.   She has another pair but wants to save them for warmer weather.  So we attempt to patch up the torn pair for as long as possible.  For a quick and easy fix our Chief Engineer makes available some sticky tape. It’s looks a good repair and Pippa resumes her duties as look-out.  Forty-five minutes later, when she gets to sit down, she receives what she describes as “an unplanned waxing treatment to my bum”.  The Chief claims he advised two layers, one on the outside, one on the inside, with the sticky sides together, but strangely no-one remembers this.  A Barbados beer has apparently been agreed in settlement.

from Andy Gill’s log 09.01.06
“When it came to a first chance to go up the mast I rushed forward and headed up to the t’gallant yard (one down from the top !).  But as I stepped out on to the yard itself I realised that my enthusiasm had outstripped my abilities by about 1000%!  I clung on for dear life, knees shaking, and many minutes later, after being guided back to the deck I swore I’d never go aloft again.  It took just 24 hours for my watch to persuade me otherwise.  Today I made it up to the upper topsail yard and helped stow the sail.  Not quite as high, but I was much more confident and my knees shook only half as much.  And a simply stunning view.  Will I now make it to the top ?”

Adjusting the clocks 10.01.06
As we cross the ocean we need periodically to turn our ship’s clock back to allow for the fact that we’re heading west and the sun is coming up later each day.  Today we’ll make the first adjustment.  Pretty much everyone will adjust their watches; Laura will additionally be making an adjustment to “Mascara Time” which, she says, officially runs from 10 minutes before breakfast until 10 minutes after dark, at which time mascara is no longer visible.

Day 7 - 12.01.06

We’re in the tropics at last!  Huzzah!  At around 0400 last night we crossed the Tropic of Cancer – latitude 23.5 degrees north, I now understand – and entered tropical waters.   As a reward the weather today has been bright, warm and sunny, with pale legs and sailing shorts appearing everywhere.  It’s a nice change from the last few days, which have been generally overcast, and from the threat of rain, which has never been far away.  Last night there were spectacular lightning storms all around the horizon, but luckily for Watch Leader Kerrie and Red Watch, who were on the open bridge overnight, we had the good fortune to motor straight between them and suffered no rain whatever.

But we’re still motoring today.  Despite hoping to pick up the trade winds we haven’t been able to find them so far.   We have made sail occasionally but with changeable winds progress has been slow and we’ve consequently had to resort to the diesels.  Captain Darren gave a meteorology talk this morning, with lots of complicated explanations about fronts, depressions and isobars, but he couldn’t hide the fact that the wind steadfastly refuses to blow.  Fingers crossed it picks up soon.

Meanwhile, with no sails to play with, we’ve been making alternative entertainment.  Blue Watch Leader Ben has started up a game of Murder, in which everyone aboard is participating.  The names of the entire ship’s company, and an equivalent number of shipboard locations and ‘weapons’, were placed last night in three cups, from which each of us randomly drew a victim, a place and a weapon item. 

Some of the latter are a bit bizarre and may require some ingenuity on the part of the murderer.  Nonetheless there have been some spectacular successes so far.  The Chief Cook ensnared his assistant in the galley with a bra, whilst the Chief Engineer was done for in the accommodation block, where he had been lured on the pretext of fixing a broken bulb. Steve from Red Watch hatched an elaborate plan to bump someone off with a large, inflatable fender.  Having set the trap he lured in his victim, only to find at the crucial moment that the fender had been spirited away – possibly by an insider!  So we’re all finding out who are friends are!

But we have been learning new skills too.  Third Officer Clive has given a few practical sessions into how to use a sextant and Richard, our bosun, has introduced us to the art of splicing ropes.  This produced variable results, the nimble-fingered like Natalie picking it up in no time whilst our Liaison Officer laboured for half an hour, only to produce a tangle of frayed ends!   Some seemed especially enthusiastic and were keen to keep their ropes for later.  But was it for extra practice or the construction of some new Murder weapon?

And on we motor.  Let’s hope for some Trade Winds tomorrow to speed us on our way.

Day 8

Now we really know we’re in the tropics; bright, warm weather all day, the sea the deepest aquamarine and flying fish zipping past alongside.   Shorts and sun-hats are appearing all round.  And at last the trade-winds have started to blow!  So towards lunchtime we were able to set sail and turn off the diesels at last.  Since then we’ve been making a steady 7 knots, helped by an extra sail which Ben and Red Watch constructed from an oar, a bedsheet and -  in response to Capt. Darren’s challenge – a bra. The watch spent a good few hours in its assembly and are consequently convinced that the 10 knots maximum we briefly touched overnight was principally due to their efforts. The respective contributions of sheet and bra are being debated.

Meanwhile everyone else has been relaxing on deck, soaking up the sun.  Purser Lynn was obliged to change her routine and instead of inviting us to the on-board shop she instead brought the shop to us, touring the ship at intervals with trays of snacks and refreshments, usherette style.  Service indeed! 

Not that anyone was too hungry.  Meals on board come regularly and in quantities sufficient to satisfy even the most ravenous appetites.   Dave the Cook is helped in the kitchen by 2nd Cook Sheila, Assistant Cook Ian and a rolling rota of volunteers from the crew.  Yesterday it was the turn of Steve from Red Watch who hit the jackpot as pudding of the day was Banoffi pie.  When everything had been cooked, served, eaten and cleared away the long awaited moment arrived – time to lick the spoon!  It was an especially big pudding spoon which Steve had been eyeing up all evening.  “Ahh, Banoffi heaven!”

Other crewmembers’ thoughts, meanwhile, are focussed elsewhere.  Yesterday our on-board Murder game prompted a veritable spate of killing, with Ron from Red Watch emerging as the mass murderer of the day.  Softy-spoken Ron is truly a gentleman’s assassin, a Cary Grant amongst killers and with 7 victims already is clearly a force to be reckoned with.   Of the remaining crewmembers still alive, none is sleeping easily.

With the sails up and a good breeze blowing we are rapidly approaching the mid-point of our crossing.  A celebratory party is planned and we wait to see what fancy dress material our shipmates have brought.   Our clocks are once more due to change as well, creating yet more mascara problems for Laura. 

Friday

Correction - Yesterday’s edition incorrectly attributed the making of an extra sail. Laura from Blue Watch writes with a full and more accurate account of its construction :

"Blue Watch had a triumph yesterday with the creation and hoisting of the World’s Smallest Sail, now flying with honour at the end of the Fore Course Yard. It was finely crafted from natural twine, a 100% wooden oar, an organically grown broom handle, a duvet cover and a Primark 100% polyester strapless brassiere. Christened the ‘bra-sail’ its craftsman-like construction took some 4 hours to achieve. Half an hour of this time was spent untangling a rope from the ship’s radar (momentarily disabled - Ooops, lucky there’s no-one else about out here !). And then for a further one and a half hours some of our number perched on the end of the yard tangling and re-tangling a mischievous length of rope that did it’s utmost to thwart a successful deployment. After such efforts we’re sure we must have added at least 0.3 knots to our speed! There were just a few minor adjustments the next day, gallantly performed at the end of the yard by Blue Watch No. 1. John Purdie (it’s his mum’s birthday today - "Hello Mum!"). And now, a day later and still in place, the bra-sail is pulling its weight admirably in the new-found Trade Winds. Huzzah!"

With the Trade Winds blowing steadily now an informal inter-watch sailing contest is developing. Until yesterday the fastest boat speed was recorded by Blue Watch at 10.2 knots. Late yesterday, however, the winds started to pick up and the uppermost ‘royal’ sails were taken in (or more correctly, "clewed up" - we’re rapidly picking up the jargon!) But despite having less canvas Red Watch still recorded 10.4 knots during the night, though there’ll be plenty of time to improve on this as Captain Darren says this morning that there’s a good chance of fair winds all the way into the Caribbean.

On the activities front there has been a busy programme recently. Last night’s quiz was officially won by Red Watch but ended in a rousing Tom Jones sing-a-long shared by everyone. And plans are well in place for a fancy-dress party to commemorate the half way stage of our Atlantic crossing. The theme will be Mr. Pirate and Miss Caribbean and cross-dressing has been deemed obligatory. So there has been much swapping of clothes and hunting down of suitable accessories.

As the winds have increased the swell has picked up too. So the Stavros has been rolling a bit, with the occasional plate going flying at breakfast and the tops of a few waves rushing their way on to the gangways, catching the feet of the unwary. But with the water temperature a balmy 23 degrees no-one minds too much ! And the blue of the sea is breath-taking; with the sun overhead the swell rolls through every imaginable shade, from turquoise at the crests to the deepest, most translucent navy. The Dulux® chart doesn’t do anything quite like this!

Unmoved, meanwhile, by the beauty of the scene, Ron continues on his murderous way, with a further two of his shipmates despatched by mid-morning. It all started as a game but is there now a monster in our midst?

14.01.06 - Saturday

We’re zipping along now with the Trade Winds really starting to pick up, blowing a steady 30 knots overnight and the maximum recorded speed has now risen to 11.7 knots.  The swell has increased too and was regularly washing the gangways this morning, with some big ocean rollers piling up to the stern and carrying us forward.   With a lot of weight aloft in the masts and yards the Stavros rolls slowly and predictably; crossing the deck might occasionally involve a steep climb one moment, and a rapid descent the next !  But we’ve rigged some lines on deck to help us keep our footing.  It’s great fun, but the effort involved in just moving around is unexpectedly tiring and we’re grateful for a quiet day today to catch up on some rest.   Even Ron the Murderer may be taking a day off !

Some of us are a bit tired already.  As well as participating in the on-watch shift rota Watch Leaders Diane, Kerrie and Ben have the added responsibility of leading their teams, supervising activities and keeping on top of paperwork.  It’s genuinely a 24-hour-a-day job; here’s an extract from Ben’s diary recently:

‘Three Watch Leaders together could fairly be described as a “meeting of the shattered”.  We’ve now been sailing for 8 days… or is it 9 or 10;  I lost track a good few watches ago and I think I now must be well into sleep deprivation.  Thankfully the members of my watch have now got used to the watch system and can cope more independently, for which I’m very grateful as more often than not it’s now me who needs guiding about !   A few times I think I’ve ended up in my bunk with no recollection of how I got there !  And as soon as I close my eyes it seems it’s time to get up again as I’m needed somewhere else.  Fellow Crew Members, Please Help !  Do remember the “Stavros S. Niarchos Shattered Watch Leader Fund” !  A Mars® bar a day is not much to give, but it could make all the difference to your Watch Leaders’ ability to think!   Please give generously !’

Today at about 0900 we made the half-way point of our crossing.   Huzzah !  To mark the occasion there’s our fancy dress party this evening which preparations have been ongoing for a few days.  Even after their full day maintenance programme Deck Hands Alex, Trevor and Dudley have kindly offered to man the bridge later on and relieve the on-watch team so that they can join in the celebrations.  It’s good to feel that as a crew we’re all helping each other out, despite the rolling seas.

16.01.06 – Monday THE RESCUE

Events aboard ship have been really hectic over the last 18 hours or so as we have been involved in a genuine mid-Atlantic rescue !

At about 1700 yesterday afternoon Captain Darren and his bridge crew picked up an SOS from a radio beacon some 100 miles northwest of our position, transmitted via satellite relay.  It turned out to be from a rowing boat participating in a Transatlantic Race. No further information was available. Despite the distance we were the nearest vessel so we had no choice but to alter course towards the rowing boat’s last reported position. 

This set us up for some real rough-weather sailing!   The sea state and the wind had been building up all day, but hadn’t bothered us as we sailed downwind. But our turn to the northwest now placed us beam-on to the sea and we now felt the full force of a 5 metre swell and force 8 winds. Waves and spray swept the decks as we headed off into the darkening night, with a ten hour passage between us and the distress call.  Extra safety lines were rigged, on-deck personnel were cut to a minimum and firmly harnessed on and everyone else did their best to get some rest – not easy with the hull slamming into the troughs with unremitting intent.   At this angle to the wind we had to shorten sail.   This meant a trip aloft which, given the conditions, was not a climb for the faint-hearted. Deckhands Trevor and Dudley were the men for the job.  With a gale whistling through the shrouds, and with the masts tracing a huge swaying arc across the sky, they coolly stuck to the task and got the sails stowed.  With some help from the diesels we pounded on through the night.

By first light we had assistance at hand.  The United States Coastguard had scrambled a Hercules which by now was circling overhead at the scene of the distress call.   Looking down they had pinpointed a strobe light from the tiny craft and helped guide us to it.  The seas by now had abated a little, allowing Deckhand Alex the chance to get aloft and act as lookout. It was he who first spotted the light and Steve on the helm steered us in.   Even at this stage we had no way of knowing the nature of the emergency, though the smoke flare that was now visible indicated that this was definitely not a false alarm.   As we approached we could make out two bodies clinging on to an upturned craft, which had fallen into difficulty during yesterday’s heavy weather.  We drew in closer.  At last we got within hailing range and found them to be two American girls who, despite their ordeal, appeared uninjured.  With the swell lessening it was possible to launch a liferaft and float it across to them.  Luckily they still had the strength to haul themselves in and from there we were able to pull them aboard, to shouts and cheers from the whole ship’s company. 

Warm blankets and hot food was made available to our unexpected guests. With no concession to their nationality we immediately insisted they have a Big British Mug of Tea.  Then First Aid Officer Lyn got them straight off for a hot shower and a most welcome and restful sleep.   It was probably a good time to be rescued.  Had events happened only a few short hours earlier our fancy dress party would have been in full swing and they would have been greeted by some especially bonny pirates and a most unfortunate set of heavy-jawed, gruff-voiced Caribbean women!

19.01.06 – Thursday

Amidst the excitement of our rescue there was an important news item that was quite overlooked.  Ron is dead !  Yes, our most accomplished assassin and favourite to win the onboard Murder game, has himself been done in !  His killer turns out to be Harry from White Watch, who strangled him in the toilet block with a pair of boxers.  Strangely enough, Ron had got wind of his killer and had studiously avoided the washrooms in question, using them only when he knew Harry was on watch. In the end, overconfidence was perhaps his undoing. Harry in turn is undoubtedly a talent, having lain in wait and bided his time for so long, though it remains to be seen whether he will attain the same notoriety as Ron whose tally of 12 victims is a Stavros record.

We’ve now been at sea for almost two weeks.  Whilst a degree of cabin fever inevitably sets in it’s noticeable too how quickly the pace of ship-board life becomes established.  Andy Gill from Red Watch writes :

“It’s strange how quickly you get used to this .  In a very short space of time this ship has become my home and these people, the outgoing, the quiet, the moody and the joyful, have become my family.  My world has become a blue ocean filled with wonders, a sky overflowing with stars and horizons which go on forever.  Right now I can’t imagine setting foot on land again, nor leaving these people and our world.  It’s a unique experience being out here.”

Meanwhile, we’re rapidly approaching the Caribbean !  With 500 miles to run we’re heading for the tiny island of Bequia, with arrival estimated for Sunday.  Even with air conditioning it’s now really quite warm below decks, though the muggy, close weather of the last few days hasn’t helped; we’re all looking forward to a good spell of tropical sun ! The sun shone briefly yesterday lunchtime and we caught sight of whale trailing the stern, and quite obviously having some fun surfing the swell.   Sylvia was once again enraptured, though for others it’s a different wildlife which inspires.  Andy Gill again :

“Although I’ve seen whales and Dolphins on this voyage it’s the flying fish which impress me the most.  I never tire of seeing them.  Like a flock of shimmering silver birds they burst from the ocean and soar above the wave tops, sparkling in the sunshine.  Each time I see one it reminds me of the miracle that is Creation.  Fish that fly; whatever next ?”

Sweepstake Update
The value of the prize fund is £22, to be split :

Arrival time   £11
Distance run   £4.40
Fue    £3.30
Eggs    £3.30

According to the present plan we are due to arrive at our first destination at midday on 22nd January.  Those who have made their guess for that day include :

James Jansen  (11:35)
Trevor Cambridge  (11:40)
Simon Williams  (15:40)
Kerrie Gray   (16:30)

The only guess earlier than 22nd is by Asst. Engineer Peter Neill (21st, 11:07).  The next guess after 22nd is by Ian Blake ( 23rd, 11:25)

20.01.06 – Friday

Three hundred and fifty miles to run !  Our first port of call is confirmed as the small island of Bequia, just to the south of St. Vincent in the Grenadines.  Captain Darren plans our arrival for Sunday midday and we’ll be lying alongside for two nights.  It looks as though we’ll then have time for some island hopping before heading east once more to our final destination of Barbados, which we will pass sometime tonight.  With a stop in port now only days away we’re all now looking forward to stepping on to dry land.  With the winds and seas having calmed slightly over the last 24 hours we’ve made use of the engines to make sure we arrive on schedule.

We’ve been keeping ourselves busy with a few on-board entertainments.  Yesterday evening we had a nautical quiz which was closely contested by all the watches.  The highest score of the night was recorded by the Permanent and Volunteer Crew.  But they were later marked down when Watch Leader Ben, unable to resist his natural inclination towards cheating, sneakily looked up a few answers from Atlases and Wallcharts, leaving Blue Watch to emerge as winners with Aelred and Red Watch just a half point behind. 

Today’s entertainment had a more practical flavour when the Egg Drop contest was held on the boat deck.  In this traditional event each watch is charged with the task of constructing a container in which a raw egg can survive unbroken after the container is thrown to the deck from the first foremast platform.  As usual the contest was well attended.  Keith from Blue Watch introduced their device and was the first to launch; whether by chance or design the wind took the projectile towards a soft landing amongst a pile of fenders where, after retrieval by the judges and to applause from the crowd, it was found to be unbroken. 

Andy and Harry from White Watch came next. Their design - in the form of a human head - was simpler but a wonderful launch brought a huge cheer from the crowd as Egghead soared beyond the lifeboats but landed with an ominous clump on the steel deck.  Andy looked apprehensive, but as the protective layers were peeled away a ripple of surprise amongst the nearest bystanders turned to spontaneous cheers all round as this egg too had survived. 

Finally, Red Watch approached the platform.   They had the most elaborate vehicle of all, a design masterpiece in the form of a missile, complete with crumple zones and an internal protective rubber sheath.  Termed the Eggsocet, it was widely tipped to do well and an expectant hush fell across the ship as Rob ascended to the launch platform.   Gripping the launch handle he steadied himself, drew back his arm and there was the Eggsocet speeding menacingly over the deck.  But instant disaster !  The powerful and ambitious trajectory carried it directly into a rigging line; it’s flight disrupted it plunged sideways to the deck.  With its front-mounted crumple zone pointing hopelessly skywards it landed with a sickening thud.  The bowed heads of Red Watch told the tale and the referees’ egg check merely confirmed the inevitable.

And so, with two eggs intact, it was down to the referees’ decision.  Previous contests have adjudicated solely in terms of distance but on this occasion Chief Engineer Andy and Assistant Peter, in a thorough-going appraisal of all aspects of the contest, awarded points as follows :

Scores in order; Blue Watch - White Watch - Red Watch
Economy of build  7 8 6
Sound design principles 4 0 9
Clarity of vision 8 4 8
Launch 2 8 1
Recovery 10 10 0
Total  31 30 24

Keith from Blue Watch accepted a handshake from Andy as Overall Winners but with two eggs surviving the drop it was a vintage contest.  White Watch applauded but with Egghead having travelled further were clearly aggrieved at the result.   An appeal is thought to have been lodged and rumours circulate of a protest march around the Boat Deck tomorrow.   Let’s hope we can reach Bequia before the situation becomes ugly.

 After our crossing there’s been a whole heap of fun here in Bequia.  We brought the Stavros alongside the quay right in the heart of Port Elizabeth;  the only settlement on an island which itself is home to only a few thousand souls.  Then, after squaring away our gear, it was time to explore; dry land for the first time in 16 days !  For most of the crew the first stop was the beach for an afternoon of paddling, swimming and an impromptu game of ‘pass the coconut’ which ended up as a mass frolic in the surf !  Then there was a gentle stroll back towards the ship around the rim of Port Elizabeth’s natural harbour stopping en route for the a very welcome rum punch. Or perhaps two!   After early evening showers back on board we dispersed amongst the restaurants lining the harbour in search of a seat on the terrace and a view over the bay.  At dusk the roadstead really was a stunning setting with the masthead lights of yachts at anchor glimmering through the dark.  Later on, when the restaurant lights were dimmed and night sky wheeling overhead, it was difficult from the shore to tell where the anchor lights finished and the stars began.

For some party goers, inevitably, the stars soon began to wheel about quite alarmingly, and not from any interplanetary motion.  But stragglers and strays all made it back to the ship eventually, with your tactful editor absolutely refusing to declare which couples were the last aboard.  The next morning was, admittedly, a bit of a late start for most but everyone surfaced in the end and happily no-one was too much the worse for wear.

Yesterday afternoon there was an organised excursion to show us something of the island.   A bus and a couple of taxis turned up and we set off around Bequia’s narrow switchback roads. By the end of the afternoon, as the island is only some 7 miles long, we had probably covered most of them !  The taxis turned out to be pick-ups which provided an opportunity for Caribbean-style motoring as we called in at a Turtle sanctuary and, in a nod to Bequia’s past, its old whaling station.  And from the peak at the top of the island we looked out over an aquamarine panorama towards Mustique and the distant Grenadines; truly a fabulous view.

In the evening, once again, there were trips out to restaurants, though with the prospect of leaving harbour this morning the pace was a little more restrained this time.  And here we are, slipping our lines and sailing gently from the quayside !   The plan today is to sail some 30 miles to the south.   Captain Darren apparently knows a deserted secret spot for lunch.  He’s definitely raised our hopes, with promises of white sand, crystal water and a palm fringed lagoon !   High stakes, but he hasn’t disappointed so far !   Tonight, after a day at the beach, we plan to be swinging to anchor behind the nearby island of Mayreau.  It sounds like a wonderfully relaxing day.   There were a few showers yesterday but in truth, such is the present spirit on board that even a spot of rain can’t dampen our expectations.

Meanwhile, Keith Chester, having masterminded the Blue Watch victory in the Egg Drop event a day or so ago, writes in to congratulate White Watch on their winning presentation in the Tropical Island Survival Contest. He goes on to describe the sailing :

“A large proportion of the crew have clearly been on a mission to sail the Atlantic and for them our arrival in the Caribbean has marked a very significant achievement.  Whilst we’re at sea the mood aboard ship changes with the weather and with the variable sleep that everyone gets but the spirit of camaraderie pervades despite everything. Most have stopped counting bruises, days or miles and getting better at sailing these fantastic ships is now all that counts -  apart, of course, from having a right good laugh with your watch when another squall gives everyone a drenching yet again !  Next stop will be our secret spot for some R’n’R.  Wonderful !”

Now Keith may mean ‘rest and relaxation’ there.  Or is it ‘rock and roll’ ?  Our engineers Andy and Peter are rumoured to be hosting a barbecue on deck this evening and Dave the Cook has been seen dusting off some of his cheesy CDs.  So who knows, maybe there’ll be both !